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Bevel edged knives of laminated steel “Triflex” and carbon steel are sharpened using water or oilstone.
Knives with badly worn edges are however first honed using the EZE-LAP Diamond sharpener, since this gives a faster sharpening action.
Woodcarving knives are honed along the complete edge without producing a further bevel close to the knife edge. If the knife is subject to hard cutting treatment then a separate cutting edge (with 2-5° angle) is produced by raising the bevel edge approximately 2-5° from the whetstone during honing. The higher this angle the stronger the edge.
Honing can be carried out either by using small circular movement or along the edge. This latter method is probably best since it is easier to control the angle of the knife edge to the honer. We recommend finishing off by removing the small remains of raw edge by stroking the knife edge against leather or a coarse cloth.
Knives in the above mentioned steel grades should be oiled-in to prevent corrosion.
Stainless steel knives with bevel edges are honed by exactly the same above method, the exception being that in most cases only the EZE-Lap Diamond sharpener is used since this gives a better action. An oil-stone is used both to remove the raw edge and for the fine honing operation.
Stainless steel knives with non-bevel edges are sharpened using the Frosts' sharpening steels. Hold the sharpening steel firm and rigid. Place the knife flat on the sharpening steel and raise the blade so that the cutting edge is 2-3° greater than the ground angle. Draw the knife in an arc towards the tip of the blade. This movement is repeated alternatively on each edge of the blade whilst gradually reducing the pressure being applied. The knife will be once again sharp after about 10 sharpening strokes.
Never strike the knife blade against the sharpening steel.
